5 GMT watches for the jet-set man
These timepieces will keep you ahead of the game no matter what timezone you find yourself in.Matthew Priest October 15, 2014
Carl F Bucherer Patravi Traveltec Four X
The limited-edition chronograph combines an 18k gold case with high-tech ceramic bezel, tough titanium push piece and rubber strap, while functions include chronograph, date window and – perhaps most impressively – settings for three different time zones.
The three different time zones – powered by the specially developed CFB 1901.1 caliber – are displayed simultaneously, making it ideal for both frequent flyers and for those who do business with people all over the world.
The hour hand on the central dial represents Home Time, while you can set the second time zone, or Local Time, via the red hand. The third time zone is set using the pusher at 10 o’clock to turn it to E or W depending on whether the time zone is east or west of local time.
Details: approx. AED 190,000. Visit carl-f-bucherer.com
Breitling Navitimer World GMT
Not only is the Navitimer Breitling’s most famous model, but it is also one which collectors openly covet and other houses glare at with envy. It can be dangerous to mess with that kind of status and prestige, which is why this year’s new GMT model only sees two small – but important – changes.
The case has been bumped up to a hefty 48mm and, thanks to a transparent back case, shows off the House’s Calibre 04 movement. The second update sees the addition of a 24-hour, second timezone added to the watch’s dial. The additional timezone display barely intrudes on the busy flight instrument-inspired dial, while the additional red arrow hand allows the wearer a quick indication of the hometime at a glance.
Details: approx. AED 24,000. Visit breitling.com
Panerai Luminor 1950 3 days GMT
Much of the splash about this timepiece has been about the development of Panerai’s Caliber P.9003 automatic movement, the house’s first movement with a complication to be made entirely in-house – that complication, of course being the 24-hour second time zone.
The 44mm stainless-steel case displays a standard local time function, but also includes a second time zone, which can be read simultaneously by means of an independent central hand that makes one revolution around the dial in 24 rather than 12 hours. With a power reserve of three days, the new movement is very efficient.
In terms of timekeeping, the hour hand – connected to the date – can be moved independently and in jumps of one hour, without interfering with the minute and seconds hands. When setting the time, the device which stops the balance and zeroes the seconds hand comes into operation, so that the time can be exactly set with accuracy. And like any good timepiece from Panerai, it is water resistant up to 300 metres.
Details: approx. AED 37,000. Visit panerai.com
Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph
While this new model does not offer a drastic change from the Nautilus’ classic ‘porthole’ design, the inclusion of both a chronograph and GMT (making it six complications in total) has required the creation of entirely new movement – the Caliber CH 28-520 C FUS. The 31mm movement integrates a self-winding chronograph with the dual-time module and consists of 370 components, with a power reserve of at least 45 hours.
As far as its design goes, the two pushers on the right side of the watch’s case are used to set the second time zone, and once set, the home time is tracked via a skeletonised hour hand, while the local time is displayed by a solid hour hand. The clever use of the Local and Home apertures on opposite sides of the watch’s dial use white and blue to indicate daytime or nighttime in each time zone.
Details: approx. AED 210,000. Visit patek.com
Harry Winston Project Z8
The latest timepiece from Harry Winston’s persistent “Project Z” sees the American-based watchmaker showcase the House’s pioneering use of Zalium. The revolutionary, zirconium-based alloy is lightweight, harder than titanium, extremely resistant to corrosion and, most importantly, exclusive to Harry Winston.
The Z8 is powered by a self-winding Calibre Dual Time HW3502 movement, which allows the watch to display two time zone functions separately. The main hands display home time, and the red retrograde display shows the local time. The date is connected to local time, which can be adjusted forwards and backwards via the crown.
Details: approx. AED 74,500. Visit harrywinston.com