How to... buy bespoke

Every man should own at least one bespoke suit. Here’s our guide on what to consider when having yours made.

EDGAR staff August 1, 2014

A bespoke suit is so much more than a uniform that you feel obligated to wear to work. It’s your business card; your first line of offence; your way of saying that you are a man of good taste and impeccable style; a man who values the effort it takes to make every minute detail perfect.

If that’s the man you want to be then what are you waiting for? Give your tailor a call.

Suits you

Make sure you know what kind of suit you are in need of – be it for work, black tie or casual – and whether you prefer single, or double breasted.

“The best thing to do is to talk to your tailor,” explains Mahir Ali, wardrobe advisor from bespoke tailors Ascots and Chapels. “Let him know things such as where you’ll be wearing it, what other suits you own or even ask him what is currently in style. After all, they will want to ensure a perfect fit almost as much as you do.” 42-24340423

Devil’s in the details

Most bespoke newbies are intimidated by their lack of knowledge about the finer points of selecting a suit: lapel type, number of vents, slanted or straight pockets, type of the lining etc. But don’t worry; you don’t need to know every little detail at first.

Having a suit made is a collaborative process, so discuss it with your tailor and if you want to change your mind, you can usually do it during the fitting process.

Colour coordinated

There are some tailors who can weave a bespoke suit that fits you so well, Mother Nature herself couldn’t have done a better job. So why is it despite the impeccable cut and the hand-selected frills, it still doesn't look right?

“A lot of people don’t realise that the secret to the perfect suit is getting the colour right,” says image consultant and colour analyst Janet Small. “The wrong colours or shades on people will actually dull down your best qualities. You don’t want the suit to wear you, you want to wear the suit.” 42-56677572

Cutting it close

The suit has to look like it was made for you, so opt for a nice close fit. It has to look fitted, but shouldn’t feel tight or restrict movement – especially with the arms.

It shouldn’t be too big for your body, but still must feel really comfortable. If a tailor is going to be able to get that balance, you’ve got to be honest with him. If he asks if you are planning on losing weight, be truthful.

One man only

One of the perks of bespoke tailoring is that you can add a bit of personal flair to the suit. Let the world know that this suit was made for one man and one man only. Opt for a monogram or your signature to be sewn on to the inside of your jacket pocket.

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