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Food

All’onda Cosa Nostra brunch review

Words by Nathan Irvine

It’s a bold move to launch a new brunch when the temperature is up and the season is winding down. But this is exactly what All’onda at Emerald Palace Kempinski Dubai has done. So we ventured up to the Cosa Nostra brunch on a Thursday evening to see if they could make us an offer we couldn’t refuse.

The pumping music we hear upon entering the restaurant suggests a party is taking place. We’d imagined folk dancing about the place, but in fact most were sat enjoying the food and beverages. It was all very civilised.

All’onda makes use of its indoor space well. Brunch items such as sushi and pasta are in the space in front of the bar. The DJ and his decks are just to the side of it. This means tables are brilliantly kept away from food are, creating more room to mingle on the outside.

Japanese and Italian cuisine makes for a strange, yet intriguing spread. Succulent maki rolls and pasta dishes live side-by-side – both delicious in their own way. You can help yourself to as much of the finger food as you like before and after the mains are brought over to your table.

All'onda's bar area.

1

Supplied The bar area is transformed for the Cosa Nostra brunch.

Details

What

Cosa Nostra brunch

When

Thursday, 8pm-11pm

Where

Emerald Palace Kempinksi

Price

From AED 295

Telephone

+9714 248 8870

Food for thought

In true Italian style, it’s a sharing plate setup where you’re encouraged to pluck out what you want before passing it down the line. It takes real willpower to send the pasta in a light Parmesan sauce, mind. It’s that good.

While the food selection is great and varied, with tasty options for vegans too, All’onda excels as a venue to catch-up with friends in a comfortable and classy way. Sure, it’s sedate now, but when the cooler months hit the party atmosphere will ramp up as guests spill out onto the terrace for spectacular views over Dubai.

For now though, the Cosa Nostra brunch is the spot for a laidback Thursday evening. The staff are quick to top up your drinks and the menu is brilliantly eclectic. All’onda sure has taken a risk, but they’ve delivered a killer brunch in the process.

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